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Here you'll find my assorted rants, ravings and recipes on a variety of topics, including Beer, Wine, and Homebrewing, Charcuterie and Meat, Foraging and Mushrooming, Cooking, Music, Law and whatever else I find is, arguably, fit to print.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Chica es el Diablo

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Sweet Jesus. Sam Caglione and Dogfish are making Chicha at the Delaware pub.



And they're doing it properly. By chewing the corn prior to mashing. You see, unlike malted barley corn doesn't have the diastic enzymes to convert its own starches. But as anyone who's tried to eat 10 saltine crackers in a minute knows, your spit turns starches to sugar. So traditional chicha involves chewing a portion of the corn to get the enzymes going, then a cereal mash and boil as normal. Usually unfiltered, 3-6% alcohol, and typically open fermented. Mmmm frothy. Of course the boil and alcohol help kill any bacteria from your fellow villagers' mouths, so really it's safer to drink than the water.

Mostly. My first thought was the episode of Thirsty Traveler when he went to Peru, drank some really bad chicha, and was violently ill for the rest of the trip. This culminated in him wearing a t-shirt on which he'd written "Chica es el Diablo". He'd been trying for "Chicha is the Devil", but was then informed he'd actually written 'Girl is the Devil." Ha ha.

I've thought a couple times about trying to make a batch. I'm not so down with sitting there chewing corn for hours on end. But I think an 80% cereal mash with some six-row barley and a long sacc rest might work. Mmmm, corny.
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Monday, September 14, 2009

Of Mines and Mushrooms

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So my friend Al is into exploring old mines, caves, buildings, boats and other abandoned structures around our area. And we were talking one day about mushrooms, and how he regularly sees them when he's out hiking. So we decided that we'd go out on Labor Day to explore an old mine and hunt for mushrooms along the way. It has been a very dry summer here in Puget Sound, so the mushrooming has been poor. But it rained all Labor Day weekend and we had hopes that we'd find something poking its head up out of the leaf litter...

So on a rainy Labor Day we set out. The mine was the Bergeson Prospect. It's up near the Money Creek campground near the Skykomish river and Stevens Pass off Highway 2. The approach isn't too complicated, but it involves driving to the right spot, then a bushwhack up a hill aways and then about 20 minutes hiking along an old overgrown road to a small creek with a waterfall. Directions can be found here over at 2DrX.

Along the way there are some interesting things. The forest is second growth, but the trees are all around 100 years old so they're not tiny. You can see old growth stumps like this one all around. Those two notches are logging platforms. Lumberjacks of yore cut notches in the side, then stuck boards in and stood on them while working the big two-man saw.

Along the way we'd seen many mushrooms, but very little edible. I'd harvested a few small puffballs near the car. (Right where I parked actually.) Otherwise we'd seen a lot of one kind of mushroom, some kind of Lactarius I think. But right near the entrance to the mine Al spotted a mushroom, which at first I dismissed as another of the lactarius until I got a closer look. Behold! Cantharellus formosus, the Pacific Golden Chanterelle. We looked around the area and managed to find a few more, about 1/4lb in total. This marks our first foraged chanterelles! Victory! But by this time it was really raining. Soaked, we figured it was time to go into the mine.

The chanterelles were near the stream that ran in front of the mine. I imagine the extra moisture is why we found them there, it's still pretty dry in the rest of the forest. But here's the mouth of the mine. Originally it was dug as a prospect shaft and it goes straight back over 900 feet, with a few small anti-chambers off to the sides. The prospect was abandoned a hundred years ago after they didn't find whichever mineral they were originally searching for. And so the mine sits, rusty old mining cart track, some old ventilation pipes, and other bits of random mining detritus left all around.

Though they didn't find what they were looking for, there is obviously plenty of other minerals in the mine. It is pretty wet in there, barely better than the rain outside. The first hundred feet or so are flooded to about calf height. If you walk carefully you can do a tightrope walk along the old mining cart track and with tall boots keep fairly dry. I somehow convinced Meredith to carry my duckboots in her pack, so my feet were nice and dry... Unlike hers.

Over the last century the minerals have leeched into the mine, forming amazingly cool little formations all over the place. The walls and ceiling are covered with a muddy mineral layer, and little proto-stalactites are forming on the ceiling. Here's a few photos:


It's also pitch black in there so you'll need flashlights and preferably headlights. As you can see, by this point I am in good spirits but pretty well soaked from all the rain and crashing through the wet brush. I need a new hiking hat. One without mesh holes all over it...



The mine thoroughly explored and us soaked to the bone, we headed home. We had some friends coming over for dinner later, so I got to cooking. I had a whole Coho from the farmer's market, so I decided to do salmon with a sortof wild mushroom ragout.

Here are the chanterelles that we found.


The small puffballs I found near the car are pretty common in the Cascades this time of year. I found some more by the mine, and some by a roadside up higher in another nearby valley. They were recently renamed Morganella pyriformis, but many people still refer to them by their old name Lycoperdon pyriforme. Lycoperdon translates as 'Wolf Fart' and I think I, and many others, will continue to call them Wolf Farts. Pyriforme relates to their pear-ish shape if I remember correctly.

The idea is to get them when they are firm and young. The ones past their prime will be squishy, probably have a crack or opening on the top, and shoot out a poof of olive drab spores when poked. ALWAYS cut them in half before eating, just to make sure they aren't actually a young budding form of any of the various white mushrooms that can kill you dead. The inside should look like a marshmallow, like the one above, and not like the one to the left, which is overripe and filled with mature olive drab spores.

I also had some White Chanterelles, Cantharellus subalbidus, that I'd purchased at Foraged and Found at the farmer's market the day before. They differ from the golden chanterelles in being more ivory colored, a bit tougher, and growing in slightly older forests.

So dinner.

Salmon with Wild Mushrooms


Take your mushrooms, in this case about a half pound of wild golden and white chanterelles and wolf farts, and slice. I would have preferred more mushrooms, but it was what we'd foraged so that was it. Into a pan goes a couple tablespoons of butter, some chopped shallots, a clove of garlic. Once this has cooked till the garlic is done but not burnt and the shallots are softer add the mushrooms. Cook off the liquid that comes out of them, then deglaze with a 3/4 cup of white wine. I used a Sav Blanc. Add some salt, pepper, herbs de provence, to taste. Cook until reduced to a nice mushroom sauce. You could add a couple tablespoons of heavy cream here if you wanted to. (I forgot.) It's ready to go on your salmon.

For the salmon, first pin-bone the fillet. It was about 1 1/2 pounds, maybe 2 lbs. Again, man I suck at filleting salmon. Portion it out. Brush the fillets with lemon juice. Then with melted butter. Then salt and pepper. Into the broiler until just before they look done (they'll finish while resting). To plate, top with the mushroom ragout. I used some green beans for a side (steamed, butter, salt, pepper). My guests brought some potato salad for the side as well. Serve with a slice of lemon.

It was awesome. The mushrooms were delicious. The wolf farts kind of turned into little squishy pouches for the sauce, which was tasty. Otherwise I don't think they taste like too much on their own. Salmon was perfectly done, I am definitely going to do the lemon/butter brushing again.

Finally, I'm not a professional mycologist or speleologist. I'm not an expert in caving or mushrooming. But I am a lawyer. So by way of a disclaimer I say unto thee: just be damn sure of what you're doing and don't be an idiot. Make sure you have positively identified any mushroom you plan to eat, and even then it's a good idea to only eat a little bit of one you haven't tried before. Do you're homework, make sure you know what you're doing. Crashing through the brush and going into old mines is inherently dangerous. Seriously, don't do it. Unless you really want to.
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Thursday, September 10, 2009

Wooly Pigs

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I picked up two 1-ish pound shoulder steaks from Wooly Pigs at the U-District market two weeks ago. They raise Mangalitsa pigs, and indeed claim to be the only breeding stock of the beasties in the Americas. Unlike most US pigs, these guys were bred to be lard pigs. And they are full of fatty goodness. Like apparently up to 79% fat by weight. On top of that, they are raised and treated well, and sold by the farmer at my local farmer's market. So all of this is reflected in the price...somewhere around $14 a pound.

I had one steak that was pure Mangalitsa and one that was an "F1 Hybrid" which I gather is part Berkshire(?) I can't really remember right now. The big question was how to make the most out of these little piggies.

Pork Confit
Confit came immediately to mind. These guys are fatty to begin with, so why not render some of that out and confit it? The basic recipe was the one from Ruhlman's Charcuterie. I used the F1 for this, and you can see the fat and marbling in the photo over there. Chunked it up, spiced and let sit for a bit. Then I had a problem. Well, a series of problems. First, I didn't have any good lard around and I didn't want to use scary hydrogenated factory lard. Second, despite looking I couldn't find duck fat either. So I used decent quality olive oil. Cooked at 225 for about 4 hours, then into a container. I'll have more on this guy a few days from now when I cook it up for dinner.

Braised Mang
alitsa with Chanterelles and Blackberries

The Herbfarm is arguably the best restaurant in Seattle. I'm poor, so I've never had the pleasure. Though I did play designated driver for my parents' wedding anniversary a couple years back and had the pleasure of tasting a 104 year old Muscatel there.

Which if you think about it makes me a terrible D.D.

Anyhow, they have been raising Mangalitsas and Berkshire hybrids for their table in conjunction with the Wooly Pigs guys. And our local tv station King 5 had the courtesy to post a recipe from them. So I basically followed this recipe. As you can see, the Mangalitsa is pretty well marbled and has a nice thick edge of fat. I trimmed off the fatty edge before braising the rest, and chopped it up. Into a saucepan with a little water on low for a few hours till it was well rendered. Then I tossed fingerling potatoes, garlic, shallots, rosemary, salt and pepper in it and roasted as a side. TASTY!

Here's the final dish. It was pretty tasty. The blackberries were all foraged in a city park the day before. The chanterelles were a nice addition. The braised Mangalitsa has a sortof juicy-pig/steak kind of texture and flavor. I guess my only suggestion would have been more pig!

But two servings was all I had.

Next plan is to get some pork belly from them and confit that, in preparation for November's Fry Day...
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Chicken of the Woods and Porcini Soup

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Last week I had purchased some Chanterelles and Sulfur Shelf aka Chicken of the Woods from Foraged and Found. The Chickens have the remarkable properties of being the right color, texture and flavor...of chicken. Seriously. I know everything tastes like chicken, but nothing tastes quite like chicken the way these do. Except maybe chicken.

Well after reading this post on Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, I felt inspired to try my hand at The Sexiest Soup Ever. Only instead of chanterelles I'd use my Chicken of the Woods.

Well, I only had around five ounces of the mushrooms. So I pulled a 2 oz packet of dried porcinis out of the cupboard and rehydrated them with some boiling water. Then drained, reserving the liquid, and chopped them up with the chicken of the woods. Into the saute pan they went. I pretty much followed the recipe Hank used, except I used mere chicken stock because alas I don't have a freezer full of pheasant or quail stock. Hell, I'm even fresh out of duck stock. Hmm maybe next week... I also subbed out some of the chicken stock with the porcini rehydrating water, which was super-mushroomy.

So here's the soup. I would definitely, definitely pass it through a sieve before serving. I don't have a chinois, just a normal strainer, so I bet that would make it even better. The texture was much improved after straining.

So how was it? An excellent cream of mushroom soup. Maybe not the sexiest soup ever. Honestly though, I think the porcinis overpowered things a bit. I could see how chanterelles would change the game. It did have a bit of a chicken background though, and the sauteed chicken of the woods on top for garnish was delicious. I picked up some more, and tonight I'll try them on the grill as "Chicken" Fajitas...
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Brewday - Hop Suey Double IPA

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So I've got a freezer full of hop pellets. They were bought in bulk, or won in raffles, or were sample packets Hop Union sends to brewers. Anyway, I've got a lot of them. And some of them are getting pretty old. And I like big IPAs, and my dad likes big IPAs, so I figured I'd invite him over and we'd do a freezer-cleaner monstrously hoppy double IPA.

It all begins with Hop Suey. I went through the freezer and poured in any and all open bags of hop pellets until I had a whole pound. I didn't really keep track, it's not meant to be repeatable. But I think it contained:
  • Cascade
  • Chinook
  • Centennial
  • Santiam
  • Simcoe
  • Summit
  • Mt Hood
  • Maybe some Amarillos too
The base beer was based on the recipe by Vinnie at Russian River for Pliny the Elder. Certainly one of, if not the, best double IPAs produced. I definitely agree with his philosophy of: keep the grain bill light and simple, attenuate well, let the hops talk, and dry hop like crazy!

HOP SUEY

5.25 gallons. Est OG 1.077. Est FG 1.018-1.014. Est ABV 7.75%
  • 12 lbs Pale Malt
  • 8 oz Carahell
  • 4 oz Crystal 60
  • 1 lb Invert Sugar (add in last 15)
  • whirfloc tablet (last 15)
Mashed in at 151, then another infusion to 168.
Water Treatment: 2t gypsum, 1/4 t salt, 1 t Epsom salts.

Hops. You'll need one pound of Hop Suey.
  • 2 oz into the mash
  • 2 oz at 90
  • 2 oz at 30
  • 2 oz at 15
  • 2 oz at flame out
  • after a couple days when the krausen is down, add 3 oz dry hops. Let sit 5 days.
  • Rack to secondary and add 3 oz dry hops. Keg when done. I'll cold crash it overnight too to try and drop some of the hops out of suspension.
I used hop bags for the four boil additions. At the end you'll have a lot of hop trub which can be a pain in the butt and clog valves. My kettle draws through a hop back out the middle of the kettle, which works great for whole leaf hops, but I can't whirlpool pellets, so I had to use bags. If I could whirlpool I'd probably have made more smaller additions to increase the complexity. Still, at racking to the secondary it was tasting pretty darn good...

UPDATE 9/14/09

Kegged it yesterday, my but it's bitter. Great aroma and hop flavor, but the bitterness is a bit harsh. This was after it was cold crashed at 34 of course, and it got better as it warmed up. Still, I'm thinking it might benefit from a couple weeks' aging before drinking. In the future I might move the 90 minute addition forward to 60, or even drop it and add the 2 oz at 10 or 20. It's plenty bitter. FG was 1.014.

UPDATE 9/18/09

Tried it on tap. Mmmm not good. I think it needs some aging to drop the hops a bit. And some of them really were a bit past their prime, it's got a bit of cheese. And I was lazy and dryhopped a bit too long on the second addition, so it's a bit grassy too. Meh, some of those hops were pretty old, time to dump the rest.
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Koolicle update

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Ok, it's been a week. Here goes.

Sweet Jesus. It's a neon-red-cherry-flavored-hyperpickle. What else can I say about it.

How about: "No."
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Brewday - College Debt Brett

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So now that I'm back in a place where I can ferment beers at room temperature, and have a nice big basement to store things in, it was time to make my first ever (intentionally) soured beer! The original plan was to make a 10 gallon base beer and ferment 5 gallons with Roeselare Ale Blend as a Flemish Red, and 5 gallons with Brettanomyces Bruxellensis and pluots. Well, there was no Roeselare to be found. So brett it was! If you're not sure what a pluot is, here's a Slate article.

Brettanomyces is a wild yeast, most notably used in the sour Flemish ales and Lambics of Belgium. Bruxellensis is, as the name suggest, a strain harvested from the region around Brussels. Brett is a weird critter, in that it can digest more complex dextrose molecules, meaning that over time it will create a very dry beer. It takes a long time to work (3 months to a year) and likes acidic environments, so it's usually used in conjunction with good old S. Cerevisiae and often lactic or pedio bacteria cultures. Over time brett produces a wide range of interesting funks, including everyone's favorite "horse blanket" as well as spicy phenols and notes like pineapple.

The base beer was:
  • 4 lbs Pale Malt
  • 4 lbs Vienna Malt
  • 2 lbs Wheat Malt
  • 8 oz Carahell
  • 4 oz Aromatic Malt
  • 4 oz Cara-Vienna
  • 2 oz Special B
  • Hops were 1/2 oz Magnum at 90 minutes.
Mashed at 158 to encourage dextrine formation. Then decoction to knockout at 168 to further make some tasty dextrines. After all, once the ale yeast is done we want the brett to have something to eat. No fining or anything, again, more food for the brett later. After a week's primary fermentation it was racked and split into two carboys. One had 5lbs of pluots from the farmer's market. (Sliced in half and frozen first). The other had 5 lbs of blackberries I'd foraged from a local park. Again, frozen first. Added some brett to each carboy and here they will sit until sometime after New Years'.

Then I'll rack them off the fruit, add some oak chips, and let them sit another three months or so. Then into bottles and hopefully a glass by this time next year. Meanwhile these carboys (and everything else that touches the brett) will get a skull and crossbones on it, because it will never be used for normal beer again. But I'll be more on the ball next year and grab some Roeselare blend when it's available!

Oh yes: there's a lot of head-space. I purged it with co2 after racking. Oxidization bad.
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