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Welcome gentle readers and automated spambots.

Here you'll find my assorted rants, ravings and recipes on a variety of topics, including Beer, Wine, and Homebrewing, Charcuterie and Meat, Foraging and Mushrooming, Cooking, Music, Law and whatever else I find is, arguably, fit to print.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Pectin: my most hated of all polysaccharides

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Last week we bottled this year's meads. We ended up with about three and a half gallons each of traditional Still Sweet Orange Blossom Mead and Jackfruit Melomel. Both are quite good, but the filtering of the Jackfruit was horrendous. The problem: pectin. Jackfruit is loaded with it.

For those of you unfamiliar with it, Jackfruit is a giant, spiky south Asian fruit related to breadfruit and durian. It tastes kinda like funky bananas and pineapple, is incredibly resinous and sticky to peel, and is loaded with kidney bean sized seeds (which can be cooked in curries, fried or salted and roasted!). I got my hands on about 10 lbs of raw jackfruit from a local farm, not even a whole one as the individual fruits can be upwards of 60 lbs. It took probably two hours to peel...ugh. Then I racked 4 gallons of mead onto it, added pectic enzyme, and let sit for a month or so.

Some people really go au naturale on their meads, adding water, honey, yeast and nothing else. Not me. Yeah the Vikings may have mixed honey and water in a barrel, spit in it for good luck and left it to ferment as it wanted, but not me. If figure if you can use it in wine, you can use it in mead. So I add yeast nutrient, fining agents, acid blend, sorbates and sulfites, and filtering as necessary to make something great come out in the end. However, patience is still a virtue.

Well after all the waiting, racking, waiting, sparkaloid, waiting, sulfites and sorbate, and more waiting, it was fairly cleared. But there was still some sediment and more importantly, pectic haze. Thanks a lot, pectic enzyme.

So into the filter it went!

I use a gravity fed vin-brite filter for my wines and meads, and while it works very well if things have been fined and given plenty of time to clear, it didn't fare so well against the jackfruit. I expected it might take 45 minutes or an hour...

It took eighteen hours.

Here's a photo or the carboy perched precariously on a chair for some extra gravity. I decided to just leave it to filter overnight, as it was barely going. By the next evening I was able to bottle it, blended with some of the sweet mead to balance its acidity and final gravity of about 0.996.

Obviously there are some oxidization concerns. Normally I would be worried, but these bottles won't last more than a few months anyway, and there is some ascorbic acid in the acid blend I added to taste before they went into the bottles.

The verdict? They are both still quite young, but are very good meads already. The jackfruit really comes through in the nose, and gives it a Chardonnay character in the flavor. The sweet mead is nice, you can really taste the honey, and the honey aromas are still around. The final gravity was about 1.022 so it's sweet but not cloying. Both have very nice color and clarity.

I ended up with 30 wine bottles and 8 smaller beer bottles for competition. The sweet mead got gold foil, jackfruit silver. Some of these will get special labels and end up as presents, most will just be enjoyed by us! Total cost: about $2.50 a bottle I'd guestimate. Plus hours of labor and months of waiting...

So here's some Tips For Mead:
  • Don't heat the honey. Just add one gallon of honey (I like Orange Blossom because I can get a gallon for about $25 around here!) and top up to 4 gallons total. Swirl and mix as best you can, either in the carboy or in a pot with a whisk. Add some yeast nutrient (a couple teaspoons) and your yeast and you're good to go.
  • Sanitization. Cleanliness is next to godliness. That said, honey is pretty resilient stuff. Don't stress too much.
  • Add fruit into the secondary. If you want, you can freeze it first which kills off some of the nasty bugs and more importantly causes the fruit cells to rupture, meaning more fruit flavor and aroma. You can use campden tablets to sanitize the fruit must if you wish. The slower fermentation in the secondary will not blow off nearly so much of the aromas, whereas if you put it in in the beginning you risk messy explosive blowoff and loss of flavor and aroma.
  • Add acid blend. It really helps round out the flavor, making your mead less of a one trick pony. If you add acid blend at the beginning, which can help the yeast, go easy. I say 'can', because yeast do like an acidic home, but honey is acidic, and some honeys are more acidic than others. I have had a fermentation get stuck because the PH dropped too low... Try 1/4 tsp for 4 gallons. You can always add, but you can't take it away. Then add to taste at bottling. I only put about a half teaspoon total in these.
  • Patience. Let it clear before bottling. This could take 6 months to a year. If you use bentonite or sparkaloid, mix it in very well then wait at least a week.
  • You can always sweeten to taste at bottling. Just be sure fermentation is done, and consider adding sulfites and sorbate to keep fermentation from starting up again.
  • Bottling. Move your carboy to where you're going to rack from at least a day before you plan to bottle. This applies to wine too. It's amazing how those sediments shoot up into suspension. Then rack into another carboy or bucket to get it off the lees. Then you can filter if you wish, or don't bother.
  • If you're going to make it sparkling or petilent (a little bubbly) use beer bottles and bottlecaps. Otherwise your corks will shoot out. If you aren't down with sulfites, use bottlecaps in case you get a restarted fermentation in the bottle.
For more info check out Ken Schramm's The Complete Meadmaker, a great book which I've found very helpful.
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Saturday, December 13, 2008

CSA Box: Week 3

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So our Community Supported Agriculture membership with Redland Organics began just before Thanksgiving. For those new to the term, a CSA is a program where members sign on with a local farm or group of farms before the growing season, paying for a weekly box of produce throughout the upcoming season. The farmers use the investment to purchase seeds, fertilizer, etc. without having to pay interest to a bank. The members in turn get a box of of local, seasonal, and frequently organic produce each week. We pick ours up at a member's house conveniently located in Coconut Grove.

But it's Winter! Well, Florida is special because the growing season is reversed, we plant in the Fall and harvest through the Winter and Spring.

Anyhow, I think it might be interesting to list what we receive and what we end up doing with it.

Week 1
  • Some stalks of lemongrass (went into stirfrys and curries)
  • A bunch of Dill (went into previously posted dill pickles)
  • Green Beans (went into Green Bean Casserole for Thanksgiving)
  • Mizuna (salads)
  • Baby Bok Choy (Stirfry)
  • White Asian Salad Turnips w/tops (Hakurei turnips. These were really good, went into salads and stirfry)
  • Lettuce (salad. Duh.)
  • 'Kirby' Pickling Cucumbers (4 went into Dill Pickles, 4 into Sweet Pickles. Both really good.)
  • a Monroe Avocado (guacamole)
  • Extras: a Canistel (ate when ripe, mmmm eggfruit)
Week 2
  • Pei Tsai (asian green = salads)
  • A tomato (into sandwiches)
  • Three baby butternut squashes (Two went into an awesome Squash and Apple Soup, one went into Callaloo)
  • Mint (Mojitos!)
  • Another Monroe Avocado (isn't ripe yet)
  • Two Black Sapotes (almost ripe, cookies?)
  • Callaloo (actually a sort of vegetable amaranth known as pig weed. Made a Trinidadian Callaloo. It was so-so.)
And now this week:

Week 3
  • Four Yellow Squashes (will probably grill)
  • A smallish Daikon radish (will pickle for Bahn Mi's! Vietnamese sandwiches that are some of the tastiest things on Earth.)
  • Hon Tsai Tai (Salads? Stirfry?)
  • A pint of Cherry Tomatoes (Actually kinda big, probably in salad)
  • Green Bell Peppers (grill or salad)
  • A nice Eggplant (Baba Ghanoush!)
  • Salad Mix: arugula, mizuna, tatsoi, lettuce (um, salad.)
  • Thyme (should have been in last week's. I'll thyme something or other...)
  • Roselle (Jamaican Sorrel/Hibiscus. I have NO IDEA. But it looks really, really cool. Probably try making a tea, and take some to Seattle for Christmas centerpiece decoration)
  • Didn't take extras this week, as we're leaving in a couple days
The cookbook didn't come in the box, but it will be the end of the eggplant. That's the Roselle up in the left corner.
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Friday, December 05, 2008

Happy Repeal of Prohibition Day!

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Seventy-five years ago today, December 5th, 1933, the 21st Amendment was ratified and the national experiment in Prohibition officially came to an end. Interestingly Utah was the final state needed to ratify the amendment, though Mississippi would be the last to do so, in 1966.

This didn't end prohibition for everyone of course. National prohibition was over, but around 2/3 of the states elected to exercise their "local option" to allow voters to choose to remain dry, and for a time around of 1/3 of the population of the U.S. chose to do so, either on a state, county or local level. Even today dozens of dry counties remain, including, famously, Moore County, Tennessee, home of the Jack Daniel's Distillery.

Here in Florida there are five dry counties, Lafayette, Liberty, Madison, Suwannee and Washington County. What's most interesting about the dry county phenomenon is the interaction between state and local governments. In many states it's actually illegal for a city or county to go dry, meaning control of alcohol policy is firmly within the state's hands. For example, Oregon's Liquor Control Act, is "designed to operate uniformly throughout the state," and replaces and supersedes "any and all municipal charter enactments or local ordinances inconsistent with it." Others are simply given the option, for example New York allows local municipalities to exercise the option via a public referendum. In others control is handled almost entirely on a local basis. North Carolina may have the most complicated system, setting up dozens of independent local boards to create and administer alcohol policy within their small jurisdictions.

Well, here's to the diamond aniversary of the 21st Amendment! Now back to studying for my Intellectual Property final...
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Saturday, November 29, 2008

Bacon!

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So I made another batch of bacon. Ran up to Penn Dutch in Hollywood and got a whole pork belly for a very reasonable price. This time I took photos of at least some of the process.

I split the belly in half and made about 4lbs of maple bacon and 4lbs of cracked black pepper. Basic recipe out of Charcuterie, basic cure + maple syrup or black pepper. Here you can see them side by side after curing.


The big revelation on this one was I finally got my smoker to cooperate and not overcook the bacon. I use a Weber Smokey Mountain "bullet" smoker, and while it does a great job of holding 225 for 10 hours it doesn't really like to go cooler. But this time I did a modified 'Minion Method' start and it kept a great 180 for several hours. Just fill the charcoal pan about half full, sprinkle whatever wood you're using (I used maple, alder and a bit of hickory), and add 20 lit briquettes. Fill the pan with cold water, and the lit coals will slowly spread keeping the temp nice and low. Worked like a charm, didn't get any dry or toasty bits and got to an internal temp of 140 before I pulled them.Here you can see the pepper bacon being trimmed into two nice sections, and some knobby end bits. Those were chopped up and used in a soup. Both maple and pepper came out great, the best attempt yet.
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Pickles

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So last weekend our CSA started up, and just in time for Thanksgiving. In our half-share we got a bunch of lettuce, some mizuna, some hakurei turnips, a Monroe avocado, two pounds of green beans, some fresh dill and 8 pickling cucumbers. So last weekend I made pickles.

The jar of dill pickles is on the left, sweet on the right. Both recipes came from Charcuterie. It has occurred to me that it might seem like I only have one cookbook and I assure you that's not the case. I'm not trying to pull one of those French Laundry At Home blogs... But Charcuterie is seriously excellent. I'll open them in a couple weeks.
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Brew Day: Saison Hiver

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So I took the yeast cake from the bottom of the Saison d' Ete and brewed a dark winter saison. It's based on the recipe from Zymurgy, adapted to the ingredients on hand.

At the last minute, instead of using the Dark Candi Sugar and Turbinado I took a 1lb cake of Palm Sugar, inverted it and caramelized it for about 45 minutes until it was quite dark and added it at 5 minutes remaining. It goes into secondary tomorrow and I'll add the vanilla bean and cinnamon then.

Also discovered that the reason my last saison's gravity was so low was that I'd underestimated the final volume. As I found out when I racked from the 6.5 gallon primary to the 5.5 gallon secondary and it overflowed all over my floor. Ooops. Tasted great though. Think I'm going to etch gallon markings onto the carboys soon.

Saison Hiver
Belgian Specialty Ale

Type: All Grain

Date: 11/6/2008

Batch Size: 5.50 gal

Brewer: Russell Everett
Boil Size: 7.78 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 90 min Equipment: Brew Pot (15 Gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (10 Gal)
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
11 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 70.97 %
1 lbs Munich (Cargill) (9.5 SRM) Grain 6.45 %
1 lbs Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 6.45 %
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) Grain 3.23 %
8.0 oz Wheat Malt, Pale (Weyermann) (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.23 %
4.0 oz Carafa I (Weyermann) (320.0 SRM) Grain 1.61 %
1.50 oz Sterling [7.50 %] (60 min) Hops 30.4 IBU
0.50 oz Sterling [7.50 %] (20 min) Hops 6.1 IBU
0.11 oz Cinnamon Stick (Secondary 5.0 min) Misc
0.55 oz Vanilla Bean (Secondary 5.0 min) Misc
12.0 oz Candi Sugar, Dark (275.0 SRM) Sugar 4.84 %
8.0 oz Turbinado (10.0 SRM) Sugar 3.23 %
1 Pkgs Belgian Saison I Ale (White Labs #WLP565) Yeast-Ale

Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.079 SG

Measured Original Gravity: 1.010 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.023 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.005 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.44 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 0.65 %
Bitterness: 36.5 IBU Calories: 43 cal/pint
Est Color: 27.6 SRM Color:
Color

Mash Profile

Mash Name: Single Infusion, Light Body Total Grain Weight: 14.25 lb
Sparge Water: 3.44 gal Grain Temperature: 72.0 F
Sparge Temperature: 168.0 F TunTemperature: 72.0 F
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5.4 PH


Single Infusion, Light Body
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
75 min Mash In Add 4.00 gal of water at 161.5 F 149.0 F
10 min Mash Out Add 2.85 gal of water at 199.0 F 168.0 F

Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
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Charcuterie: I Made Hot Dogs!

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Right, it's been a while and it's time for posts. I've been using my wife's camera to take photos of various things and it turns out that actually getting them off the camera is a bit of a challenge. But first up: I made Hot Dogs!

I used the recipe from Michael Ruhlman's Charcuterie. These are All-Beef Chicago-Style, with no mechanically separated meat, raccoon parts, or old boots used at all. It took me three days and about 8 hours of work to make 12 hot dogs. Was it worth it? Oh yes.

The recipe is as follows:

1 lb. Boneless Lean Beef (I used chuck)
1 lb. Beef Suet

3/4 oz kosher salt
1/2 tsp Pink Salt
10 oz. Crushed Ice

2T Corn Syrup
1 tsp dextrose
1 tsp minced garlic
1 T dry mustard
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and ground
1/4 tsp white pepper

5 feet or so of hog casings (or use 10 feet or so of sheep for skinny dogs)

Step One was to make suet, on account of I don't have any idea where to buy it around here. I asked the butcher at Norman Brothers if I could get some "beef fat trimmings" and he looked at me like I'd grown a second head. "I'm making hot dogs and I need fat." "So you want some sirloin?" "Um, no, I just need beef fat." Which brings me to an issue I've been having. Seriously, it is irritating how the state of the butcher's art has declined. Most supermarkets are near useless, and even Whole Foods has turned out to be generally unhelpful. Fortunately there's a few good specialty and Cuban places around here that can hook me up. Anyway, it was finally communicated that I was making hot dogs from scratch, which fascinated the butcher at the counter, and resulted in a wonderful cry to the back of "Hey, get the fat bucket!" Now we're talking. So I got about 6lbs of beef fat scraps for $6 and went home to render.

I brought out the big cleaver and went to town on the scraps. In retrospect I might have bothered to run it through the grinder, the yield would probably have been higher.

So all the bits went into a pot with about a half cup of water. Then it went on low until it was simmering a bit. When it had done that for a half hour or so I popped it in a 200 degree oven and left it for about 4 hours.

When I was done I ended up with a good pound and a quarter of pure delicious beef suet, and maybe a half-pound of rendered beefy jelly. (The jelly went into a beef stew and was delicious. The process also left crusty little bits of beef that had essentially confited in the fat. They went into some carnitas tacos and were also delicious.)

Here it is on the left after it cooled. The next day it was time to make hot dogs. Hot Dogs are an emulsified sausage, with bits of meat suspended in a paste of fatty goodness. Heat is your enemy on this one. So the chuck and suet were diced and put into the freezer until crunchy but not frozen solid. Then they were ground through the large die onto a baking sheet and put into the freezer again. Then, it was mixed with the salt, pink salt, and ice through the small die and into my Kitchenaide bowl set in ice. Added the corn syrup, dextrose and spices and whipped it on high for about 6 minutes with the paddle attachment.

Mmmm looks delicious no?

Did a quenelle test like the recipe said and discovered that I am terrible at doing the quenelle test. Soldiered on and loaded the mess into my sausage stuffer and made links of varrying regularity...

Now, normally these would be left to dry out a bit for a day and then smoked. But the weekend was over and I just didn't have the patience or time to fire up the smoker. So the next day my darling wife poached these at 160-180 F till cooked and ready to eat (140 F internal).

I figured that by grilling them I'd get enough smoky goodness to make up for it, and I was more or less correct. The final verdict? They were possibly the most amazing hot dogs I've ever had. Like the best dog you ever had at your first baseball game with your father when you were six kind of awesome. You can see the finished product below next to some very bland looking leftover coleslaw and potato salad.

My only advice: cook them properly. On the grill, George Forman, or whatever is ok, just make sure to take an internal temp reading and hit 150. If it's colder then water inside sortof comes out in a lukewarm rush. Not good eats. But if it's hot enough it comes out in a toasty warm flood of deliciousness.

Will I make them again? Maybe. I think I could streamline the process a bit. Still a lot of work though. But worth it.
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